Blackwake not responding full#
Blackwake not responding series#

The only unclear thing was about the CANh and CANl wires. So I decided to try your method and repeated all steps as per your post, unfortunately without result.

Blackwake not responding series#

To my surprise, the system woke up with a series of chirps and then it worked until my battery died.

Blackwake not responding full#

As it was a 39,6V system (based on the existing cells) and I only had a 48V battery, I didn't dare to use it full but discharged it to around 45V which left me with around 20% capacity. I have a system with a dead battery and have opened the battery case and tried to use it with an external battery (having its own internal BMS) connected to the internal battery wires. I have read with great hope your posts concerning reviving a Bionx without the BMS.

The problem is that the Arduino doesn't fit inside the battery rigth now, i have to reprocesses the overall wiring for that. I think that i have discovered the codes for battery voltage, state of charge, regen on/off. On the CanBus Hack side, for now i just listened to the communications of the system on my wife's bike witch is fully functional.

No automatic shut-down after 10 minutes like it was said above. The console and the motor can communicate without the battery original BMS, the only things that lacks are the battery gauge, the regeneration and the odometer that acts very strangely. The CanH and CanL wires are shorted with a 240 Ohm resistor for the moment. Do not plug a battery in the bike with tension on the socket, it will produce a huge spark. When the switch is on the DC/DC converters are on, the relay is activated and the + of the battery is connected to the socket. When the switch is off, the DC/DC converters are disconnected and the relay is in idle position witch means that the + of the battery is connected to the charge plug. I also added a opto-magnetic 30A relay operated by the +5V and a simple rocker switch on the outside of the battery. I use it everyday.įor now i just removed the BionX BMS, installed a standard 13s Chinese BMS with balancing function, added 2 DC/DC converter one for +5V and one for +12V. My 48v CanBus system with dead BMS works like a charm. Thanks again to all contributors that helped me reviving my batteries. Last point, the picture displaying the pin out of the battery conenctor is wrong is this thread. Saying taht i would recommend (as my franch camarad) to insert a waterproof switch on your battery to prevent it to get discharged during long time OFF periods. Other point, a cheap module like the LM2576HV usualy sinks 10 mA continuously on the battery pack (you can start by removing the led to save a couple of mA). 1 small linear (or switched) regulator to step down 12v to 5.5 or 5v to save some volume inside the battery case. 1 HV DC/DC switching converter module to step down 55v to 12v with a 'good' efficiency (look for LM2576HV at your favorite chinese vendor) on 12v seems that around 300mA are sinkedĪlso is seems to work good with 5v as well as 5.5v. In case it would help anybody i wanted to share these numbers here : I wasn't sure of the current capability and the power that the 2 voltage regulators would have to handle so i did built a small test board to mesure the current sinked by the bionX systeme. remove the bionx board from my battery and put inside : I was glad to read this thread and will proceed as my french camarad, ie. I am not far from office so i lived with this 'half charge' for a couple of years but as the pack is getting tired my autonomy is getting very low. The 2nd batteyr : charges the pack only to 3.8v each elementwwhich give 60% of the pack capacity. The first battery : the bms/controller board is dead and flash red while the li-ion pack is ok. I did buy a 2nd hand bionX powered ebike with 2 CAN batteries :